In 3000 BC, Queen Hatshepsut of Egypt sent expeditions to Africa for myrrh, frankincense, and herbs. In that era, aromatic resins and scented botanicals were used in religious ceremonies, burials, and personal adornment. Herbs and spices were among the leading imports from India to the Mediterranean region powers of Egypt, Greece, and Rome.

In ancient times, logistics was a challenge, but a vibrant international trade existed despite it. Intrepid merchants from India undertook the journey to Mesopotamia in small boats laden with herbs and spices. Deep sea voyaging was too dangerous, so boats hugged the coastline. The onward journey to Palestine and Lebanon was done by land. Donkeys and then camels were the preferred modes of transport. The supply chain extended from Alexandria to Egypt and Rome.

With the discovery of the monsoon winds, travelers and merchants began relatively quickly crossing the Indian Ocean, reaching the shores of Arabia. Camels brought goods to the thriving empires of the Middle East and Southern Europe.

Perfumes and fragrances were the preserve of the rich, powerful, and mighty—kings and queens. They and the nobility were the primary consumers of these expensive herbs. Myrrh, frankincense, calamus, onycha, saffron, cedar, and sandalwood were a few of the most popular fragrances and incense. These aromatic resins and scented botanicals were used in religious ceremonies, burial preparations, and personal adornment.

Nefertem (an Egyptian God) was appointed the ‘Lord of Perfume.’ Aromatic woods, fruits, and even local flowers were used as fragrances. The Indians, Chinese, and Ancient Egyptians pioneered using perfume, herbs, and spices for medicinal purposes. Incenses were burnt in temples, mansions, and palaces to perfume and for their health-giving properties.

Fragrances and herbs were expanded to the general populace in Ancient China and India. The Bible has several references to perfumes and fragrances. Most people are familiar with the verse describing the magi’s visit, bringing gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh on the birth of Jesus.

Eccelsiasticus 24:13-17, Revelation 5:8, Song of Songs 4:14, and many other verses have references to cassia, myrrh, galbanum, onycha, styrax, aloes, sweet cane, spikenard, gum tragacanth, balm, saffron, and cinnamon.

Fragrances and herbs were used as defenses against deadly diseases like Bubonic plague and other infections. Doctors would fill their bird-like masks with oils, herbs, and spices and wear them like ancient PPEs. Alchemists began conjuring secret formulas containing ingredients imported from Asia.

Chemists took over and began producing contemporary notes such as cardamom, clove, cocoa, and vanilla. Italy, Spain, Paris, and France emerged as the center of fragrance and perfume.

Manufacturers of fragrances, scented powder, and perfumed gloves also contributed to the history of perfume. They developed their trade and took advantage of novel floral ingredients such as carnation, lavender, rose, and jasmine, to name just a few. Gradually, the perfume industry began targeting middle-class women. Perfumery was still regarded as an art and trade of luxury goods. Chemical synthesis triggered new processes and unique fragrance blends. The industry grew, and brands emerged.

Synthetic fragrance compounds were discovered in the nineteenth century, revolutionizing perfumery and creating new scents. A rich tapestry of scents that reflected the tastes of various classes and groups emerged, and this is how the fragrance world evolved over the millennia.

Read more on the fragrance world in Holy Beauty: https://amzn.to/40h1CcX

Sudhirahluwalia, Inc