Before I describe acne-fighting agents, let me briefly explain the causes of the skin’s development of acne. During puberty and other times, when the body produces more androgens, sebaceous glands start overproducing excess sebum. The oily sebum produced by these glands lubricates the skin and hair.
When the plugged follicles are close to the skin surface, they bulge outwards and create a whitehead. A blackhead is created when the plugged follicle is open to the skin.
Cutibacterium acnes is a bacteria species that lives on the skin. It thrives and reproduces in clogged hair follicles, causing inflammation. These can be red, raised pimples, nodules, or cysts that stay under the skin. These pustules can sometimes accumulate pus at their tips and become painful. Acne usually appears on the face, forehead, chest, upper back, and shoulders.
While genetics may play a role in the development and progression of acne, these are often related to a diet rich in refined sugars or dairy products. Certain medications containing corticosteroids, testosterone, or lithium can aggravate acne formation, and stress can make acne worse.
Acne scars can remain long-term after they have healed; the skin can appear hyperpigmented or lighter than before. While acne is more common in teenagers, it can appear to people of all ages because of its relationship to hormonal changes.
In Biblical times, the Ancient Egyptians and Greeks treated acne with honey, sulfur, sour milk, patchouli oil, hot water, and sulfur baths. Peach blossoms and herbs were other treatments in Traditional Chinese Medicine.
Retinoids, basil oil, copaiba oil, green tea, minerals, peptides, salicylic acid, resveratrol, rosa damascene, tea tree oil, seaweed, and taurine bromine are some ingredients in cosmetic products that help mitigate acne. (Fox, L. et al., 2016) Other agents used in cosmetics for acne mitigation are linoleic acid, lauric acid, antioxidants, nicotinamide, alpha-linolenic acid, benzoyl peroxide, niacinamide, and zinc salts. (Araviiskaia, E. et al., 2016) Acne patients also use moisturizers, sunscreens, and cleansers. Goodman, G. (2009)
I have reviewed a few cosmetic product ingredients with anti-acne properties, such as salicylic acid, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), and vitamin C. Here are a few others that you could find in cosmetic formulations:
Benzoyl peroxide acne-fighting agent
The compounds help treat acne by killing bacteria and removing excess oil and dead skin cells that clog pores. They are an ingredient in gels, lotions, soaps, and liquids. Lower-strength products are as effective as higher-strength products and reduce the risk of side effects. Benzoyl peroxide can bleach hair and clothing and should be used with care. It takes eight to ten weeks to see a noticeable improvement in the skin.
Benzoyl peroxide efficacy is enhanced when combined with retinoids and tertiary amines. (Sangransky, M. et al., 2009). When the compound (5% concentration) was combined with 5% tea-tree oil, the anti-acne action was superior and had fewer side effects. (Bassett, I B. et al., 1990)
Adapalene
It is a vitamin A derivative that prevents pimples from forming under the skin and keeps pores clear. It is available as a gel, solution, lotion, cream, or swab and is usually applied once a day at bedtime. It is used in adults and children 12 years and older. It is a first-line treatment of acne vulgaris. (Waugh, J et al., 2004)
Azelaic acid – acne-fighting agent
Azelaic acid in 1 to 10 percent concentration is found in cosmetic products, including creams, gels, and foams. It unclogs pores, removes dead skin cells, reduces keratin production, and prevents the formation of whiteheads and blackheads. It kills acne-causing bacteria and reduces redness and hyperpigmentation. It is more effective when combined with benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin gel, tretinoin, and erythromycin.
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid found in wheat, rye, and barley. Skincare products usually use synthetic versions for greater stability and effectiveness. It is effective against mild to moderate acne and is a good first-line treatment with low allergic sensitivity. (Webster, G (2000)
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