Anti-aging and skin brighteners contain active ingredients that help restore a youthful appearance and delay and repair skin damage. These substances include cell stimulators, estrogen-type anti-aging agents, free radical scavengers, sunscreens, skin exfoliating, strengthening, and tightening agents. Vitamins, enzymes, and antioxidants are other compounds with anti-aging properties.
Phytoestrogens
This ingredient class is best for mature women, especially menopausal women. Most phytoestrogens are of plant origin. Plants most probably synthesize these compounds as defense mechanisms against herbivore predation, directly affecting herbivore fertility.
The most important and well-known compound isoflavones, such as genistein and daidzein. Other compounds include lignans, stilbenes, coumestans, coumarins, dihydrochalcones, and triterpenoids. These compounds are some examples of anti-aging and skin-brighteners.
Isoflavones
Aging and a decline in estrogen levels are associated with aging in women. Aging causes the epidermis to thin, skin moisture to diminish, and fine wrinkles to develop. Isoflavones bind to estrogen receptors to improve skin changes. (Irrera, N., et al., 2017) The group of compounds was found to provide effective protection against the skin’s ultraviolet (UV) photodamage. (Lin, J Y et al., 2008)
Genistein and daidzenin
This class of ingredients is extracted from plants of the Leguminosae family, also known as the pea family. Pea-like pods with bipinnate leaf patterns characterize the family of these plants. Common sources of genistein and daidzenin are Glycine max (common name soybean), Pueraria candollei, Sophora japonica, and Trifoium pretense. These compounds are also produced from oatmeal, wheat bran, and corn flour.
Soybeans are cultivated in the US, Brazil, Argentina, China, and India. The herb is a major protein and oil source in many foods, including soy milk, tofu, soy sauce, fermented bean paste, natto, and tempeh. Defatted soybean meal is a cheap source of protein for animal feeds and prepackaged meals. Bean oil has many industrial applications.
Pueraria candollei is a medicinal plant widely used in Thailand. The Chinese pharmacopeia mentions it for its medicinal properties. The isoflavones in the tubers slow the aging process and improve skin condition. (Wang S et al., 2020)
Styphnolobium japonicum and Sophora japonica are species with the same common name: the Japanese pagoda tree. The plants are mentioned in Japanese, Chinese, and Korean medicine literature, and their medicinal properties have been studied. Sophora japonica is also mentioned in the European pharmacopeia. Its flowers and fruits are used in medicine and cosmetic products.
Sophora japonica is claimed to soothe irritated skin, even skin tone, and reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation. It is also said to inhibit melanin production and strengthen the skin barrier. The plant is used in various products such as face blush, eye and brow liner, lip balm, and body art. Extracts from the plant’s flowers are used in cleansing oil, face cleansers, and foams.
Genistein and daidzein are used in cosmetics and personal care products as skin conditioning agents and anti-aging products. Their primary functions are to protect the skin, act as antioxidants, and condition the skin and hair. Genistein helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity. It protects the skin from sun damage, soothes it, and helps heal wounds.
The European Union consumer safety regulator has declared these compounds safe for cosmetic products at concentrations up to 0.007%. These isoflavones can be efficaciously administered using cosmetic skincare products. (Minghetti, P et al., 2006) Their antiphotoaging effects have been validated. (Wei, H et al., 2003)
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