Hair care cosmetics can help restore hair cuticle damage and prevent breakage.
Shampoos
In ancient Egypt, people washed their hair with water and animal fats. Greeks and Romans made lye soap from fats and ashes and used it for washing. In India, herbs and their extracts were used. These included soapberries, gooseberry, hibiscus, acacia (shikakai), and Albizzia amara (arappu). These were boiled together to create a thick paste that cleansed and nourished hair. In Europe, ingredients from elm bark, willow root, red root, and goat milk tea were used to wash hair.
Shampoos clean the scalp and hair and prevent hair shaft damage. They can contain ingredients to treat scalp diseases like dermatitis, alopecia, and psoriasis. Each hair type has different needs. There are various hair shampoos, such as color-protecting shampoos, hydrating shampoos, clarifying shampoos, dry shampoos, strengthening shampoos, sulfate-free shampoos, and anti-frizz shampoos.
Shampoos contain ten to thirty ingredients, including surfactants, conditioning agents, foam builders, viscosity modifiers, sequestering agents, clarifying agents, preservatives, anti-dandruff agents, and perfumes.
Cleansing activity depends on the type and quantity of surfactants utilized, which are modulated depending on the requirements of the individual hair type. The alkaline pH increases friction between the fibers, leading to cuticle damage and fiber breakage—shampoos with a lower pH cause less frizzing. (Dias, M F R G., et al, 2014)
Surfactants
Surfactants reduce the surface tension between water and dirt, allowing dirt to be removed from hair and skin. Most modern shampoos, based on alkyl sulfates, effectively clean hair. Many shampoos also contain foam booster chemicals such as cocamide monoethanolamide and cocamide propylbetaine.
Foaming properties drive consumer preference even though they are not linked to the cleansing power of the product. Mildness to the skin and eyes is another key feature that shampoos need to deliver to consumers. Cornwell, P A (2018)
There are three types of surfactants: anionic, cationic, and amphoteric.
Anionic surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate, are the primary cleansing agents in shampoo. These are known for their foaming and cleansing abilities but can be harsh on the hair and skin.
Cationic surfactants are used in hair conditioners, while amphoteric surfactants help reduce a shampoo’s irritancy while increasing its active contents and lather quality. These are mild shampoos preferred for babies.
Lauryl glucoside is a plant-based surfactant derived from coconut oil. It creates a thick, creamy foam without chemicals like sulfates. Decyl glucoside is also naturally derived and used in shampoos, body washes, cleansers, and liquid soaps. The mild, non-irritating surfactant disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is known for its foaming properties.
When choosing surfactants for shampoo, consider factors such as hair type, formulation, environmental impact, and regulatory requirements.
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