Nail care products can be classified into enamels (polishes), hardeners, moisturizers, conditioners, and prostheses.
Nail Polish
Nail enamels contain the following categories of ingredients:
1. Film formers that ensure the nail polish is dried hard and shiny. Nitrocellulose is a common film former.
2. Plasticizers provide flexibility and adhesion. Common plasticizers are trimethyl fentanyl di isobutyrate, dibutyl phthalate, camphor, and triphenyl phosphate.
3. Resins improve adhesion, hardening, and gloss. The common ingredients are tosylamide or formaldehyde resin, tosylamide/epoxy resin, formalin, methylene glycol, and toluene sulfonamide/formaldehyde resin.
4. Solvents keep nail polish in liquid form. Common solvents are ethyl acetate, isopropyl alcohol, butyl acetate, and toluene.
5. Common pigments that give color include iron oxides, titanium oxides, chromium oxide greens, and carmine.
6. Suspending agents keep ingredients evenly distributed. Stearalkonium hectorite and bentonite are the ingredients.
7. UV stabilizers prevent colors from fading. Benzophenone-1 is a common UV stabilizer.
Film formers
It is a chemical in nail enamel that creates a smooth surface and binds the other components of the nail polish together. Nitrocellulose, a liquid mixed with ground cotton fibers, is the main film-forming agent in nail enamel.
Cellulose acetates- cellulose acetate butyrate (CAB) and cellulose acetate propionate (CAP) are used in different viscosities and solubilities.
Cellulose esters are nontoxic, do not yellow, and have good clarity and stability. Films formed from cellulose esters have fast solvent release and are easily pigmented.
Nitrocellulose, a liquid polymer mixed with ground cotton fibers, is the main film-forming agent in nail enamel. However, some nail polishes use other film-forming agents, including phenylated silicone resin, which is a popular ingredient in nail care products.
Plasticizers
Plasticizers provide flexibility and adhesion. Common plasticizers are trimethyl fentanyl di isobutyrate, dibutyl phthalate, camphor, and triphenyl phosphate. These compounds differ in their uses, properties, and potential health effects.
Trimethyl fentanyl di isobutyrate improves nail polish’s flexibility and durability. It is also a film-forming agent that gives nail polish a smooth, long-lasting finish. Dibutyl phthalate is a man-made chemical that keeps many products, including nail polish, soft.
Triphenyl phosphate is a plasticizer for cellulose acetate and nitrocellulose and a fire-retarding agent. It is a hazardous substance that can damage the liver, kidney, and nervous systems, cause skin allergies, and cause endocrine and reproductive toxicity.
Natural Products
There are several natural product-based plasticizers. Vegetable oils from soybean, linseed, castor, and sunflower are subjected to chemical changes, which are technically called epoxidization, to make them low in toxicity and migration.
Fatty acid esters (FAEs) are also natural-based plasticizers. They are synthesized by dehydrating fatty acids. They have a conditioning effect and are added to cosmetics to dissolve harmful active ingredients and UV absorbers. These compounds are derived from corn, plant oils, starch, cellulose, etc.
Natural-origin carbonates can be used as nail polish plasticizers without changing the polish’s cosmetic properties. Calcium carbonate is commonly used as a filler, and organic carbonates derived from glycerol are also used.
Zein, the natural yellow-colored substance extracted from corn, is also used as a plasticizer. Some nail polish brands use plant-based ingredients, such as sugar cane, potato, corn, and manioc.
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